Kyubey: A favorite for high-end Sushi

Diners in Tokyo have a unique problem to solve. Regardless of  the type of cuisine you're in the mood for, which neighborhood you're in, or the extent of your budget, there are a staggering number of food options. There are nearly three times as many Michelin-rated restaurants in Tokyo as there are in the entire country of France. Liz and I knew that we wanted to eat sushi in Japan and lots of it. As a result we gorged on delicacies in every level of the cost stratosphere and I really think we found the perfect balance.

Kyubey is a Ginza staple. Head chef Yosuke Imada still makes the trek to nearby Tsukiji Market himself most days and his devotion is evident on every level of his Ginza restaurant. It's a traditional Japanese sushi restaurant - diners sit on Tatami mats around a counter where the chefs perform their powerful, but delicate operations. The chef carefully assembles a piece for each person and places his edible artwork in front of the patrons as he goes. As at most traditional sushi counters, you are expected to immediately eat what is set in front of you. 

It almost goes without saying that the sushi exhibits all of the highest marks of freshness, of flavor and color - it's expected from one of Tokyo's most consistent Michelin Star restaurants. Every element is there and visitors are walked through course after course of delicacies: Fatty tuna, Opa, Yellowfin belly, octopus, and bass just to name a few. The progression from bite to bite is carefully crafted to usher through flavors from bold umami to tart and briny to unbelievable natural sweetness. Yes, the food was a mountaintop experience in and of itself, but that's not even my only reason for raving on Kyubey. 

Kyubey is welcoming. The master craftsmen you sit across from are patient and jocular and more than willing to give a little extra instruction and explanation to those who have traveled from outside the land of the rising sun. Yet somehow, this doesn't throw off the simple, Japanese vibe of the restaurant. Don't misunderstand me: There is only a little English spoken among the staff, but if you are willing to go out on a limb with a Japanese phrase or two, you'll be well received and generally understood. This is partly because some things, like Liz's facial expression as the chef placed a piece of so-fresh-it-is-literally-still-moving prawn gently on a bed of rice and wasabi and set it in front of her, transcend language barriers. 

A quick practical note for those of you who might visit Kyubey: You likely will need to have someone from Japan call and make your reservation. This is common and is a measure restaurants use to avoid having a high cancelation rate or careless guests. If you aren't staying somewhere with a concierge who can handle this for you, I highly recommend booking a tour with a local group and asking the tour guide or booking agent to make the reservation for you. Secondly, many high end sushi restaurants are a real steal during the lunch hours. Lunch at Kyubey, for example, is almost half as expensive as dinner in spite of the fact the menus are identical.